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57883.com(中国户外信息网)文章出处:中国户外信息网  文章作者:编辑部

    Flowing over stone-- 5 ways to get your head in "the zone"

    From Climbing Magazine

    by Marc Taylor

    As I started climbing it was as if something took over that was beyond conscious thought. My hands and feet located holds like they had minds of their own, and each move flowed into the next. Although I had visited this wall hundreds of times, it was easier to traverse than ever before."


    Perhaps you can recall a time when everything just "clicked," and you were totally absorbed in the climbing. If so, you have experienced one of the greatest "highs" of sports: the flow state, often described as "being in the zone." Those who have been there describe an almost mystical experience that results in, among other things, increased confidence, heightened awareness, total concentration, and near-effortless movement. The following tips will help you experience flow more often and with greater intensity every time you touch rock.


    Seek a challenge-skill balance. This is the golden rule of flow. If your hardest route is 5.10a, spending all day attempting a 5.12 will only result in frustration. Conversely, you'll likely get bored climbing a 5.6. Instead, seek routes that are both challenging and attainable. For example, you might best experience flow while climbing a 5.9.


    Set achievable, process-orientated goals. Process-orientated goals stem from the activity itself, rather than external factors. The goal of executing a perfect layback is more conducive to flow than wanting to burn off your partner or impress a spectator. Achievable goals are in your direct control. "Not grabbing the quickdraw in the middle of that scary runout" is achievable, whereas "sending the route this try" is not.


    Have a pre-climb routine. Such routines have been shown to improve the performances of elite athletes. They give a sense of control, channel attention to the task at hand, and free the mind from extraneous thoughts and worries. A climber's routine might involve a three-minute examination of the route, followed by tying in, chalking his hands, and then reciting a meaningful key word, such as "focus." Your routine must suit your needs, and will only be effective when you have practiced it until it becomes automatic.

    Promote positive self-talk. Flow is a highly focused state. Our minds, however, have a tendency to drift from this focus, diverting to irrelevant or even negative thoughts. When this happens try refocusing on a key word or image (e.g. "stop," seeing the color red, or even picturing a stop sign). With practice this can serve as a trigger to halt the unproductive thoughts and get you back into the groove.

    Visualize success. Close your eyes and simply imagine yourself flowing up a climb. You might picture an imaginary climb, such as a perfect hand crack, or the moves on a specific route. Many climbers already use this technique, often called "visualization," but not in a systematic fashion. One key component of visualization is "vividness" -- try to make your images as real as possible, using all of your senses to picture the bright colors of clothing, the rough texture of rock, the wild swing as you hold that dyno. Another is discipline; visualization is a learned skill, so regular practice is important. Do several sessions a week, devoting five or 10 minutes to each session.